Welcome. I wanted to provide stripboard layouts I've made to help people new to electronics and even the more experienced get into different aspects of electronics.
When I was young (about 9 or 10) - this is one of the first "big" projects I successfully completed and still actually use to this day so I thought I would build a new one for everyone to enjoy.
I have just build a Smokey Amp 0,5 watt (my first amp attempt) and i would like to try something more powerfull. I saw this nice design but i still have some basic questions as I am new to electronics.
First thing that bothers me is the power supply.Can i just use my wall mount AC/DC PSU Power Supply 24V 1A Adapter? If yes is it possible to also use it for the Sparky 5 Watt Amplifier? If not is there any other way? So far i have only builded projects that needed a regular 9V battery and one 12V project (i've used 2x9 volt batteries in series with an L7812 regulator).
Other issue is about stompboxes. Will i be able to use one with this amp or will i have the same problem as the sparky amp due to lack of preamp? If I wont be able to directly put a stompbox, is it able to work with this connection: guitar-->smokey amp (as preamp) --> this particular 2 watt amp ?
Also as i was looking your vero design and i noticed that pin 2 from the 1K pot is connected to both line "d" and "m". I assume that i need to solder two wires from pin 2 to lines "d" and "m".
Sorry for the basic questions and my mediocre handling of English language and i hope for your understanding.
I'm excited to give this a try! I have a quick question, though. I may just be obtuse (I'm still just learning to build and understand simple circuits and schematics). VR1-2 is just jumpered on the board, yes? VR1-1 looks like it goes to ground on the schematic, but in the pic, it looks like it's attached to another row? There are three separate wires connecting the pot but I would have thought only two were necessary based on the schematic/layout? Just trying to sort out where the green, yellow, and purple wires are going in your picture.
Best blog related to guitar explain each and everything very clearly i am impressed that you have explained so nice.Thanks for sharing this informative blog.guitar wall hanger
This article is focused specifically on how to improve the business side of your guitar teaching, the 'teaching side' of your teaching business will be discussed in a future guitar teaching article. Chords
this vero is garbage, done with disdain at how it should be wired, why bother publishing something so amateur when it clearly doesnt work at all, no wonder you were 8 or 9, it shows! go back to school dude and don't let the nostalgia make you thing you can do this.
this particular layout has been in daily operation for 11 years now, both the one pictured and the 2nd one I made in order to replace a radio amp. I sympathize with anyone that has issues when building stuff however I wouldn't go and admonish someone else because of my personal shortcomings, I found it much more productive to figure out what went wrong.
I appreciate how someone with an allegedly working unit can reply to a disgruntled builder, but let's be objective: the disgruntled poster's frustration is entirely valid. There are blatant inconsistencies between the hand-drawn schematic and the actual Vero layout, particularly regarding mismatched capacitor values and poorly defined trace routing.Deflecting a failed build as a 'personal shortcoming' is a polite way to protect a publisher's ego, but it offers zero technical insight to mitigate the problem. To call this a tie would be generous; it looks more like a lazy show-off project lacking vital operational boundaries. For example, the documentation completely omits the critical quiescent current/amperage requirements needed to drive this circuit without thermal runaway, nor does it specify the proper output impedance required to safely drive a real speaker rather than a salvaged component from an old television set.Without basic, competent engineering principles—like proper Class-AB transistor biasing to prevent cross-conduction—this layout acts less like an amplifier and more like a glorified heating element designed to melt op-amps. It is a cute effort to pretend to understand electronics, but an actual builder is far better off ignoring this dead horse and investing in commercial practice gear. My two cents, which is arguably worth more than the silicon fried by this layout.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteHI!
ReplyDeleteI have just build a Smokey Amp 0,5 watt (my first amp attempt) and i would like to try something more powerfull. I saw this nice design but i still have some basic questions as I am new to electronics.
First thing that bothers me is the power supply.Can i just use my wall mount AC/DC PSU Power Supply 24V 1A Adapter? If yes is it possible to also use it for the Sparky 5 Watt Amplifier? If not is there any other way?
So far i have only builded projects that needed a regular 9V battery and one 12V project (i've used 2x9 volt batteries in series with an L7812 regulator).
Other issue is about stompboxes. Will i be able to use one with this amp or will i have the same problem as the sparky amp due to lack of preamp? If I wont be able to directly put a stompbox, is it able to work with this connection: guitar-->smokey amp (as preamp) --> this particular 2 watt amp ?
Also as i was looking your vero design and i noticed that pin 2 from the 1K pot is connected to both line "d" and "m". I assume that i need to solder two wires from pin 2 to lines "d" and "m".
Sorry for the basic questions and my mediocre handling of English language and i hope for your understanding.
I'm excited to give this a try! I have a quick question, though. I may just be obtuse (I'm still just learning to build and understand simple circuits and schematics). VR1-2 is just jumpered on the board, yes? VR1-1 looks like it goes to ground on the schematic, but in the pic, it looks like it's attached to another row? There are three separate wires connecting the pot but I would have thought only two were necessary based on the schematic/layout? Just trying to sort out where the green, yellow, and purple wires are going in your picture.
ReplyDeleteThanks for the awesome work!
Best blog related to guitar explain each and everything very clearly i am impressed that you have explained so nice.Thanks for sharing this informative blog.guitar wall hanger
ReplyDeleteThis article is focused specifically on how to improve the business side of your guitar teaching, the 'teaching side' of your teaching business will be discussed in a future guitar teaching article. Chords
ReplyDeleteIt’s inspiring that you continue using your childhood project.
ReplyDeleteIt’s inspiring that you are continuing to revisit your childhood project.
ReplyDeletethis vero is garbage, done with disdain at how it should be wired, why bother publishing something so amateur when it clearly doesnt work at all, no wonder you were 8 or 9, it shows! go back to school dude and don't let the nostalgia make you thing you can do this.
ReplyDeletethis particular layout has been in daily operation for 11 years now, both the one pictured and the 2nd one I made in order to replace a radio amp. I sympathize with anyone that has issues when building stuff however I wouldn't go and admonish someone else because of my personal shortcomings, I found it much more productive to figure out what went wrong.
DeleteI appreciate how someone with an allegedly working unit can reply to a disgruntled builder, but let's be objective: the disgruntled poster's frustration is entirely valid. There are blatant inconsistencies between the hand-drawn schematic and the actual Vero layout, particularly regarding mismatched capacitor values and poorly defined trace routing.Deflecting a failed build as a 'personal shortcoming' is a polite way to protect a publisher's ego, but it offers zero technical insight to mitigate the problem. To call this a tie would be generous; it looks more like a lazy show-off project lacking vital operational boundaries. For example, the documentation completely omits the critical quiescent current/amperage requirements needed to drive this circuit without thermal runaway, nor does it specify the proper output impedance required to safely drive a real speaker rather than a salvaged component from an old television set.Without basic, competent engineering principles—like proper Class-AB transistor biasing to prevent cross-conduction—this layout acts less like an amplifier and more like a glorified heating element designed to melt op-amps. It is a cute effort to pretend to understand electronics, but an actual builder is far better off ignoring this dead horse and investing in commercial practice gear. My two cents, which is arguably worth more than the silicon fried by this layout.
ReplyDelete